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Huangpi Nanlu is currently one of the hottest and most lively stretches in Shanghai. First there is Xintiandi, which has been the talk of the town for quite some time. In the 19th century, Xintiandi was a residence area for people of status, and it had a scale and a reputation that was unmatched in Shanghai. Afterwards, a large influx of lower middle class outsiders moved into the Shikumen buildings, and dramatically changed the social structure of the area. Originally created as a "one family per house" structure for people of wealth and influence, Shikumen became a place where ten families would squeeze into one residence. These buildings eventually became the inspiration for the movie 72 Tenants. Some of the movie's famous characters and places such as Tingzi room, the Ke Tang room, Xiangfang, Tian-jing, the second landlord, and Baixiangren Saosao have all become part of what has evolved into "the old dream of Shikumen". Although it once represented a time of hard living, today it evokes warm and nostalgic memories in Shanghai's elderly. The newly refurbished modem day Shikumen at Xintiandi has become an enchanting and lively arena of sights and sounds.
The beautiful Sinan Lu and Rui Jin Lu roads are just a short walk away from Xin-tiandi. Here you can admire the old houses and residences of famous Shanghai figures. Sun Yat-sen and Zhou Enlai's old residences are here, as well as the Rui Jin Guest House, and Taiyuan Villa. These old buildings still silently capture the memories of history and the splendor of the past.
If you do not know much about the history of China's Communist Party, than stop here for an enlightening taste of modem Chinese history. This is the spot where the Chinese Communist Party was founded, and it is now a patriotic educational site for Shanghai students. Although it looks like nothing more than a common residential building, it has become a daily stop for large numbers of out-of-town Chinese tourists. The Chinese Communist Party's first ever meeting took place here on July 23, 1921. It was held on the first floor inside an 18 square meter living room. Among those present at the meeting included Mao Zedong, Dong Biwu and 13 other party representatives. The meeting was interrupted when the participants realized that they were being monitored by a French police station. They immediately fled the scene. The meeting was eventually reconvened on a boat off of Jiangxi's Jiaxingnan Lake, and the central leadership was elected through the party platform. Thus the China's Communist Party was born.
The memorial hall has an exhibition room filled with artifacts and mementos of the party's founding period.
Its two entry doors are painted in black with large brass rings and thick granite door frames. Shikumen's layout is typical of Chinese residences found south of the Yangtze River, with a small courtyard and a pavilion room. Shikumen's special characteristics seem to have condensed so thickly that some people find them stifling. Indeed, of all the architecture in Shanghai's alleyways, Shikumen's is the most distinctive. The alleys of Shikumen flourished in the 1860's. It is similar to other architecture in Shanghai in that although the buildings in Shikumen were home to working class families, they are still clearly influenced by a western aesthetics. Connected together into rows, these residence structures include such embellishments as Corinthian and Ionic columns.
One of the earliest parks in Shanghai, Fuxing Park is loaded with French character. A century before it became a park, this plot was part of the Gu family's fertile farmland. Due to their abundance of land, the Gu family had a private garden built that the locals called "the Gu Residence Garden". One day in 1900, the French bought the garden and expanded it with an additional 1.66 acres of farmland. It started as an encampment for French troops, but the leisure-loving French liked it even more as a place to relax. On July 1, 1908 the French political institution in Shanghai decided to turn the Gu Residence Garden into a park, and had famous French horticulturalist, Papot, supervise the project. A year later, the park was finished and was named, the "Gu Residence Park". It was also called French Park. After World War II, the park's name was finally changed to Fuxing Park. Today, Fuxing Park is flourishing with vegetation and towering green trees. The last two years has seen an incursion of nightclubs, bars, and karaoke centers. With one great leap, Fuxing Park has transformed itself from a quiet park into a focus of Shanghai nightlife and a place to let yourself loose.
Take subway line one to the Huangpu Nanlu sta tion. Leave the station from exit number two and turn left. Follow Madang Lu for about 200 meters and then turn left at the Taicang Lu intersection.
Take bus line 10 or 146 and get off at the Xingye Lu stop.
Take the Number 8 Tunnel line and get off at the Chongqing Nanlu stop
Take the lines 781 or 146 to Taican Lu, or lines 911, 926, or 42 to Huaihai Lu.
You can also take lines 2, 17, 24, 36, 41, 42, 96,104,128,575,530,780,786,835,864,869, 933, 911, 920, 945, Tourist Line Number 10, the Number 8 Tunnel Line, Daqiao Number One Line, or the free Huaihai Lu sightseeing bus, all of which will take you here.
There is a lot to see in this part of town, so it is recommended that you set aside between half a day to a full day to explore. Afternoon is the best time to see Sinan Lu because the light at this time is gentle and warm and has just enough brightness to turn out some great photography. You can visit Rui Jin Guest House and Taiyuan Villa at any time, day or night, but you definitely want to see Xintiandi at night. Shops at Shikumen turn on their lights in the evening, filling the old architecture with an eerie and mysterious beauty. This is a great time to experience the combined atmosphere's of Xintiandi and Shi-kumen; at night you will not be bothered by large tour groups, but you will still run into growing crowds of people on their way out to grab a bite to eat.
Xintiandi is full of restaurants, bars, and cafes and the establishments here are characterized by luxurious atmospheres and a variety of different moods. While they are not to be missed, do expect prices to match the high-end atmosphere.
T8 Restaurant
Famous for its decor, this western restaurant was rated by National Geographic Traveler as one of the world's fifty best restaurants. With its dim lamplight and contracted lines, the style here is very unique. Designed by a famous Japanese designer Yasuhirokoich, this is a place where trendy people come to be seen. T8 mixes eastern and western cooking styles, matching dishes from each of China's major cooking schools with western-style craftsmanship. While the atmosphere is tops, expect to pay 260 RMB for a set meal.
Paulaner Brauhaus (宝莱纳餐厅)
Located in Beili, this may not be the greatest place to eat, but it is an excellent spot to kick back with a stout beer and listen to some live music. The band plays here every night, and the place really picks up after 9pm.
La Maison French Restaurant(乐美颂)
Famous for its Moulin Rouge-style Dance performances, the underground wine cellar dining room has a lot of atmosphere.
Luna (璐娜)
Luna is one of Xintiandi's first bars, and over the years, it has become a favorite of Shanghai's bourgeoisie. But, with number of the tour groups increasing by the day, people who enjoy privacy no longer come here. Nevertheless, the action at Luna never stops. Service personnel on the second floor are almost all young Filipinos. If you are coming with someone who does not speak English, watch out.
Jesse Restaurant (新吉士酒楼)
Zen (采蝶轩)
This Cantonese restaurant has branches all over Shanghai. Their dishes are meticulously prepared, but portions tend to run small. Expect to pay over 38 RMB for a vegetable dish. The shrimp dumplings are widely recognized as the best item on the menu.
Yandang Lu Food Street (雁荡路美食街)
The food street is very close to the Huangpi Xilu subway station, and is only a short walk from Huanhai Lu. Although called "Food Street", it nevertheless seems rather desolate in the daytime and evening.
Sinan Lu, Fuxing Zhonglu, and Nanchang Lu all have a number of snack stalls and restaurants serving local Shanghai cuisine. Prices here are not too high, so do not be afraid to try a place that looks interesting. Of the three streets, most restaurants can be found on Sinan Lu.
Taihe Restaurant(泰和美食店阿娘面思南店)
Taihe Restaurant located at 19 Sinan Lu, serves Ningbo-style cuisine. Their signature dish is noodles with croaker and snow vegetables. The noodle broth is fresh and tasty and they do not skimp on the fish. A bowl will cost you 12 RMB, but you will have to pay extra for a plate of pickled vegetables. Because business here is usually booming, you usually have to wait for a table.
When you sit down you are then given a number and have to wait again for your noodles. Some people complain that the noodles here have too much MSG.
Shanghai Lane Restaurant (上海弄堂菜思南店)
Found at 8 Sinan Lu, this atmospheric Shanghainese restaurant serves a classic soy-braised pork entree.
Yangzhou Restaurant(扬州饭店)
Madame Zung Bar
Madame Zung Bar(formerly Sally's) on 4 Xiangshan Lu was one of the three first bars opened in Shanghai. The basement level is packed on weekends.
If you are willing to walk a little farther, Fumin Noodle Shop (富民面馆) at 78 Taicang Lu (in the direction of the Chang Lu intersection) serves Shanghai-style noodle dishes. Eat your fill for between 5 and 10 RMB. Another interesting restaurant is Haoyoulai Sichuan Restaurant (好又来川菜馆) (78 Zhonglu near Tai Lu), which ; serves authentic Sichuan cuisine. You can eat well here for about 20 RMB.
Shuidu Xuan (水都轩)
This Cantonese restaurant at the southern door of the Taiyuan Villa is the most expensive restaurant in the area. Trying just a few dishes can still set you back over 200 RMB.
Rui Jin Guest House(瑞金宾馆)
There are several restaurants and bars inside Rui Jin Guest House, and they all enjoy good reputations in Shanghai. Xiaonanguo (小南国), serving local Shanghai cuisine, is pretty easy to find. The food here is exquisite, with moderately sweet and salty flavors. Expect to pay between 100 RMB and 150 RMB per person.
Face Cafe
Located in building number 4, this, one of Shanghai's most famous cafes is decorated in mysterious and bewitching Thai, Indian, and Pakistani colors. Here you will find elegant Shanghai women speaking in perfectly fluent English, and listening to bossa nova and other fashionable music. You can be just like them, sinking into an "Opium Bed" and propping your feet up on a "five color" sofa. Enjoy a different world of peace and comfort under the lazy sun, seemingly miles away from the clamor and noise of Xintiandi. Face's freshly ground coffee in the afternoon is classic, and one cup runs at a cool 35 RMB. The food menu focuses on mainly Thai cuisine.
There are also two Southeast Asian restaurants in building four. One is called Hazara (哈扎拉), the other is Lan Na Thai Restaurant (兰纳泰国餐厅). Prices at these two establishments are definitely on the high side.
The stretch of Taiyuan Lu near the Marshal Villa has a lot of snack stalls. Mustard greens and pork tenderloin steamed buns are practically everywhere you turn. One place you should try is Old Shanghai Yangchunmian (老上海阳春面) at 236 Taiyuan Lu. This restaurant focuses on traditionally flavored Shanghai snacks and noodles. The vegetable soup noodles and ribs cost 10 RMB. The Marshall Bar inside the Marshal Residence plays European and American golden oldies all day long. The bar is run by two women who are both warm and welcoming. Expect to spend between 30 RMB and 50 RMB per person.