Around Huaihai Lu

Huaihai Lu is one of the most important roads in Shanghai, and the place where Shanghai residents have traditionally come in pursuit of fashionable goods and flashy lifestyles. Constructed in 1901, Huaihai Zhonglu became a place where Shanghai's bourgeoisie once flocked in droves. Begin-ning in the East at Renmin Lu, Huaihai Lu stretches West to Kaixuan Lu. One of the French Concession's main roads, in 1915 it was given the name Avenue Joffre, named after French Marshal Joffre. At that time, Avenue Joffre was considered one of the best places in the Shanghai. Noblemen and noblewomen could frequently be seen strolling in the drooping shade and perva-sive aroma of the Chinese Parasol Trees.

With the arrival of the 1920's, came a flood of Russian refugees who entered the French Concession and took over the cen-tral section of Avenue Joffre. As this new Russian community began settling in, large numbers of Russian stores sprang up along the roadside. By the 1930's, Avenue Joffre had developed into a thriving commercial street dealing in middlebrow western cloth-ing, fashionable outfits, jewelry, shoes, hats, and cosmetics, and was dotted with cafes, bars, and western restaurants.

Today's Huaihai Lu is still nostalgic for the shadows of Avenue Joffre. How many old Shanghai folk still dream about the old days — carrying around old records, mull-ing over chapters from Zhang Ailing's Red Rose White Rose, and lingering away the days on Huaihai Lu. Even more romantic are the young whose silhouettes can be seen splashed under the shade of the Chi-nese parasol trees. On Huaihai Lu you can stop in at the Shanghai Library and visit the villas and residences that once belonged to an early generation of Shanghai celebrities. Huaihai Lu also has a number of interesting old Shanghai houses like the Sheng Xuan-huai residence which was built in 1900 (today it is the Japanese Consulate in Shanghai). You can also see the French castle-like sky-rise apartment buildings constructed in 1910, and classical style Wu Kang apartment buildings built in 1942. Most of these buildings are not opened to the public, but you can still enjoy the dimension that they give to this street's atmospheric backdrop.

If you like shopping, you can check out Maison Mode and the Shanghai Pacific De-partment Store. Come and discover the hidden gems and unique character of Huaihai Lu which has enchanted Shanghai for two centuries.

Top Attractions

Eastern Orthodox Church

Moller Villa

Xiangyang Park

Xiangyang Park is located at the head of Xiangyang Beilu. This is a small park with a lot of history. Many Shanghai locals reminisce about it when they are away from home. Opened as Dumei Park in the 1940's, this has always been a favorite spot for Wei-qi players and enthusiasts. Famous Chinese Weiqi players such as level 9 masters, Chen Zude and Qian Yuping, level 8 masters, Rui Naiwei and Wang Qun, and child prodigy, Chang Hao, have all reputedly spent significant time in Xiangyang Park playing Weiqi. Unfortunately Xiangyang Park's golden days of Weiqi are over. If you go for a stroll in the park today, you can still occasionally see a couple of Weiqi players here and there, but you will find mostly Shanghai locals going about their common daily activities.

Weiqi is a common board game found in East Asia. It is known by the Japanese and many westerners as go.

Transportation

Take the subway number one line to the Shaanxi Nanlu or Changshu Lu stations. If you exit at Shaanxi Nanlu head west. Walk east if you exit from Changshu Lu. You can also take bus lines 02,42, 926, 24, 126, 320, and 911 to the Shaanxi Nanlu and Changshu Lu bus stops. If you plan on going to the Cathay Theater, the Parkson Shopping center, or the Shanghai NO.2 Department Store, then get off at the Shanxi Nanlu stop.

Travel Plan

Huaihai Lu has two can't-miss sites, and both can be enjoyed in just a few hours or less. One site is the Hengshan Moller Villa, which we strongly suggest you visit at night. The other is the Huaihai Lu commercial street--a shopper's paradise. If you love shopping, please refer to the chapter on shopping in Huaihai Zhonglu.

Food and Drink

Huaihai Lu has an impressive number of eateries. Shanghai Times Square, Hong Kong New World, and the Hong Kong Plaza all team with restaurants and food joints. Of the choices offered there, Kakatei Japanese Restaurant and Ebi Sushi are both popular choices. Ebi Sushi is the cheaper of the two. Vegetarians will probably want to check out The Vegeatery on the third floor of Shanghai Central Plaza (381 Huaihai Zhonglu). The Vegeatery has a 38 RMB lunch buffet, and the food there is pretty good.

Rosso Ristorante(罗素淮海店)

Located at 3 81 Huaihai Zhonglu on the third floor of Shanghai Central Plaza, this French restaurant has a 58 RMB lunch time buffet. The prices here are also pretty reasonable.

Coco Ylfan Wu(COCO一番屋淮海店)

Located at L209, 688 Huaihai Zhonglu (near Sinan Lu), this cheap Japanese-style restaurant primarily serves noodles. Prices there average out to about 40 RMB per person.

Qichun Restaurant(起春餐厅)

Located at 124 Jinxian Lu (near the Maom-ing Nanlu intersection), Qichun serves up authentic Shanghainese food. The restaurant is small and is always packed. Expect to spend 40 RMB per person.

Linglong Restaurant(玲珑餐厅)

The atmospheric Linglong Restaurant is located at 57 Shanxi Nanlu. While not very large, Linglong serves tasty, saucy, red-colored Shanghai-style entrees. Portions are large, service is fast, and the price is right. Business here is always humming, and despite its small size, Longling is still one of the most famous eateries in Shanghai. We recommend the soy-braised pork, the water spinach in fermented bean curd sauce, and the ribs and potato soup. Prices average out at about 40 RMB per person.

Jinlong Fast Food Restaurant(金龙快餐)

Jinlong is a street-eats style restaurant located next to the Eastern Orthodox Church and is always packed with customers.

Boona Cafe

This relaxing cafe is located at 88 Xinle Lu. It is a nice place to relax after a day shopping and sightseeing, and the prices here are rea- | sonable. There are magazines and books on the book shelf if you want to read, and wireless internet service is also available.

There is also a cafe inside the Hengshan Moller Villa that sits across from a large velvet lawn. Stop in here for a cup of coffee for an extremely satisfying experience. The Moller Villa's hotel restaurant serves local Shanghai cuisine in a setting that will remind you of an old Shanghai movie. Expect to pay around 150 RMB per person. You can also find a lot of restaurants right outside the hotel entrance.

Xinjiang Uigur Restaurant(新疆风味饭馆维吾尔餐厅)

Located on Shaanxi Nanlu, entrees at the Xinjiang Uigur Restaurant are packed with Xinjiang flavor, though prices are not cheap. After seven pm you can enjoy Xinjiang music and dance performances.